First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Post photos of your home automation. Have discussion about how you use EventGhost in your setup.

First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Tue Oct 25, 2016 4:27 pm

13087114_10206404302492210_9211524211814405228_o.jpg



I am going to start off with this photo. I completely Remodeled this room. and made it my media room.


Setup:
EventGhost is the core that basically tells everything what to do

Plugins Used:

MediaPortal Message Sender Plugin
TCPEvents
OSD Multi Menu
Modified Harman Kardon
MicasaVerde Vera
xAP
Timer
E-Mail
SunTracker

Other Software Used
MediaPortal
MyMovies Database
Video Game Database (I don't recall the name)
RetroArch (Game Console Emulator)

Hardware
Arduino with IR Receiver and IR Transmitter
One4All Remote
Epson 3020UB Projector
Dedicated Server
Dedicated HTPC
MiCasaVerde Vera3 Lighting Controller (Z-Wave)


How it runs:

The arduino picks up and processes the IR sent from the remote. it then sends a command for the button pressed to EventGhost via the xAP protocol. the xAP plugin does it's magic and translates the message and posts an event. EG uses that event to tell MediaPortal what to do. or to tell the Projector what to do. MediaPortal sends a reply back for things like playing a movie. or stopping, pausing. things of that nature. And with that event EG uses the MicasaVerdeVera plugin to send commands to dim lights or turn the lights on. I also have the setup hooked to the doorbell for if the doorbell rings it will pause the movie and raise the lights. I use the OnScreen MultiMenu for manually changing things like Temperature and Lights. When the menu system comes up i am able to select what i wish to do. so EG changes the remote commands from sending to the Audio or MediaPortal to controlling the Menu instead. once the menu closes it goes back to controlling the AV. I use the E-Mail plugin for Monitoring my phone. if i get a text message the message is sent to an e-mail address that I have EG monitoring when EG gets the e-mail it displays the message using the OSD command and it comes up on the screen.
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Sat Oct 29, 2016 4:20 pm

This is a case I built well the beginnings more like a proof of concept to see if I could get it to work. But this case is 14" tall 8U and 17.5 " wide and about 20" deep. It's an 8U rackmount

The point is. No one makes a way to house a computer with a full size double slot video card in anything smaller than a 4U and I needed to fit 4 machines in a space of 10U. So my problem is how to squish 16U into 10.

1U = 1.75"

So I set off building everything is made from aluminum and riveted together. And each computer can slide out without the need for shutting down the others. Each machine can hold

Full ATX Mobo. Power supply 5.25 drive laptop cd drive. Up to 5 hotswap 3.5" HDDs full size video double height
Single pcie x1 card
IMG_20160607_000658.jpg

IMG_20160607_000839.jpg

13416872_10206655482851562_8736348531378279786_o.jpg

13340093_10206655482371550_7842492372551973664_o.jpg
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby Sem;colon » Sat Oct 29, 2016 10:57 pm

Nice. :D
How did you connect the video card in this position?
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Sat Oct 29, 2016 11:42 pm

a riser cable. there is a big ribbon cable that plugs into the slot on the mainboard and has the same connector that's on the mainboard on the opposite end of the cable i just had to come up with a way to mount that end in such a way that would allow for plugging and unplugging. that was one of the hardest parts. that and also finding a 1U power supply that put out enough power to run things. because most of them are only about 250 watts. and i didn't want the fans in the power supply running at full speed all the time. as a general rul of thumb you want a power supply to be 40% higher then what you actually use.

so a 500 was what i needed and that's a lot of power to get out of a box that is 4" wide by 1.75" tall by 6" deep

and server related components are not usually designed with noise as a concern. LOL so a couple of 5000 rpm fans make a racket. I also had to rewire the power supplies because none of them have the connector for a video card. and I hate using adapters and wanted to loom the wires anyways
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Sat Oct 29, 2016 11:50 pm

this was the first version of the case. I have since altered it a couple of times. and now have a template for the actual piece that slides in. I am going to make 4 more that are identical.

i spent a lot of time filing all the joints to they meet perfect. and i made a jig for drilling all the holes where things are riveted i had to stop working on it because my house needed some attention. so i do not have completed photos as of yet.
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Thu Nov 10, 2016 8:08 am

some more photos

IMG_20161021_142201.jpg

IMG_20161021_142135.jpg

IMG_20161021_141911.jpg

IMG_20161021_142119.jpg

IMG_20161021_141811.jpg

IMG_20161021_141647.jpg

13173116_10206430772873953_2612870566709600846_o.jpg
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Building the Screen

Postby kgschlosser » Thu Nov 10, 2016 5:52 pm

These are a couple of photos from when i built the screen for my "Theatre"

Specifications:

100" diagonal
3/8 industrial shock cord used to hold the screen fabric tight
grommets placed at every 4"
material folded over it's self then the grommet was installed going through 2 layers of material
to avoid any pinching of the material (the ripples you see when you tie up a tarp using it's grommets) i used 1/4 inch steel bars wrapped the material around the bar and then installed the grommet as tight as i could get it against the bar. the purpose for this is the shock cord once put through the grommet would not longer be pilling on the material it's self but would be pulling on the bar transferring the pressure from a small spot into the length of the bar (the whole edge of the screen)
the fabric i used is an acoustically transparent material this allows for the placement of speakers behind the screen. (my center channel) without the fabric causing the sound to be muffled. i also tilted the material before i cut it at a 12.5 degree angle. this was done because the image produced by a projector is in pixels and pixels are square and the screen material is a woven fabric having horizontal and vertical threads. thus "squares" in some cases the pixels can line up with the weave in the screen and produce an anomaly called moire' which is described as a screen on a door fluttering in the breeze. when this occurs there is only one fix. get a different project, or get a different screen. to assure i did not have this problem by tilting the fabric i now made it impossible for the weave of the screen to line up with any edge of a pixel. tho this does cost quite a bit more to do because of the large dimension fabric and the waste. i thought it was worth the doing to ensure that i would get the very best image. I also designed the screen with no center supports for the frame. allowing me to not have to "back" the screen with any kind of light absorbing material. giving me a complete wide open shot through the screen with my center channel and not adding o the cost by having to purchase an acoustically transparent light absorbing material.

when the screen was stretched onto the frame i used about 150 lbs of pulling force per loop (every 4") to pull the screen taught and the shock cord was actually a tiny bit larger then the grommet hole (when you pull shock cord the diameter gets slightly smaller). this was done to eliminate any possible creeping of the fabric doe to small variations of the pulling force.

the screen material actually stretched to add a full 2" to the diagonal measurement


when i made the visible frame i wrapped the frame in the blackest most light absorbing velvet i could find. this is done to make sure that any stray light from the projector doesn't reflect back at you. and the visible frame is mounted 1/4 of an inch off the screen so there is a gap between the 2 allowing for automatic masks to slide between the 2

the purpose to a mask is to cover the "black bars" that almost every movie has at the top or bottom. or if you are watching a 4:3 ratio video. what happens is there is always a small amount of light that comes from the projector in those black areas and because a screen is made to reflect as might light back at you as possible to give a true "Theatre" affect the masks are made form that same light absorbing velvet and placed where the black bars are. this is done 1 of 2 ways. you have to manually get up and put them on using magnets. or you have ones that you can move with a couple of presses on the remote. now touching a screen is really not the smartest thing to do because of the ouls on your fingers, dirt, ect ect. and the added annoyance of having to get up and put these things on.

because of the way the screen is made it can also be used for rear firing projection as well as front and can be recessed into a wall showing only 1/2" of depth. and it can be mounted into any wall that is of 2x4 construction or greater.

now i personally like having a visible frame on my screen and the frame i have is 2.5" wide.

comparison to a top of the line screen

1/4 inch shock cord
grommet every 8"
no steel bar
grommet through only a single layer of screen material
they use the visible frame to smooth out the ripples from the shock cord pulling on the grommets not allowing for automatic masking
the shock cord is smaller then the hole in the grommet allowing for "user tightening" and creeping could ensue
screen will need to be tightened from time to time due to the low pulling force on the cords as not to tear the material
center bar in frame
3.5" visible frame
most do not tilt the screen material or if they do charge almost double for the screen

a screen with the specification i have built mine to does not exist save for mine. and if a price tag was put on it given the current features would have cost a little over $10,000 USD

these first 2 images are from when i first fired up the projector. i have no visible frame installed and no adjustments have been made. this is from bone stock factory settings on the projector and the screen was kind of "propped" up and not mounted properly. and it still looks fantastic.

13130879_10206404335373032_1828312647326288859_o.jpg

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13115995_10206404328172852_6092309203925353009_o.jpg


if someone was interested in having me build them a screen like this i can do it without a problem. to pretty much any specification they want. I can also do frameless PM me for details
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby zian » Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:33 pm

This is cool.
Thanks KG.
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Fri Nov 11, 2016 3:07 am

zian wrote:This is cool.
Thanks KG.


I figured a show off what you have done thread is a good thing. it can help to motivate people and also possibly start conversation as to how they did different things. Why work hard on something??? to show it off. just like if you work really hard to buy a nice car... what do you do? You go and show it off. because it's an accomplishment. something you worked hard for or hard at. I think i almost broke my arm one time when i was patting myself on the back. LOL but no I am proud of building this setup. and the reason why I am is because I didn't know 1/2 the crap to get it done. i had to learn it and not from a teacher. but from reading. and that makes it Oh so much better. and I want to share that knowledge because if it just sits in my head only being used just the one time.... kind of a waste if you ask me.
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby zian » Fri Nov 11, 2016 10:10 pm

kgschlosser wrote:I figured a show off what you have done thread is a good thing. it can help to motivate people and also possibly start conversation as to how they did different things. Why work hard on something??? to show it off. just like if you work really hard to buy a nice car... what do you do? You go and show it off. because it's an accomplishment. something you worked hard for or hard at. I think i almost broke my arm one time when i was patting myself on the back. LOL but no I am proud of building this setup. and the reason why I am is because I didn't know 1/2 the crap to get it done. i had to learn it and not from a teacher. but from reading. and that makes it Oh so much better. and I want to share that knowledge because if it just sits in my head only being used just the one time.... kind of a waste if you ask me.


I agree for sure.

Not automation but I made this yesterday for my home theater slash living room...
https://goo.gl/photos/LCZEsqQWhpzkg1uh7

The projector is above the fireplace (smart huh?). It gets hot as shit up there.
When bed time comes projector wouldn't shut down if a fire was going.
Too hot. It would just run and run the fan till it cooled down.
Not anymore. ;)

It's just temporary... For winter.
Proof of concept type of thing.
The dog doesn't mind it.
Being a bachelor sure has it's advantages at times.
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby skribb » Sat Nov 12, 2016 2:37 am

KG you've got a great rack :shock:
Automation is life.

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EG: r1722
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Sat Nov 12, 2016 4:54 am

skribb wrote:KG you've got a great rack :shock:


ya know. that's not the first time i have heard that. LOL

i need to add a second. but unless i move the wall for the laundry 2" it won't fit. and i just tiled the laundry about a year ago. so that's not going to happen any time soon.

zian wrote:Not automation but I made this yesterday for my home theater slash living room...
https://goo.gl/photos/LCZEsqQWhpzkg1uh7

The projector is above the fireplace (smart huh?). It gets hot as shit up there.
When bed time comes projector wouldn't shut down if a fire was going.
Too hot. It would just run and run the fan till it cooled down.
Not anymore. ;)

It's just temporary... For winter.
Proof of concept type of thing.


not sure what you are building there.... and what model epson is that. i to purchased an epson. and the only reason as to why is because of the front exhaust.

13131671_10206404302452209_1686772259866787171_o.jpg


i have to 3020 i was going to get the 5030 but the price difference was way to high for adding lens shifting and having a little better contrast ratio. and I wouldn't even use the lens shift. and actually the zoom is at a 1:1 so it's not even being used the placement for my projector is spot on perfect. screen height and distance hit the sweet spot. so i am getting the best possible picture this projector can put out. because there is no digital correction being used. and no optical changes either. I actually have to run the thing in power save mode. otherwise the thing is to bright. and i don't have to worry about washout during the day either. and i got the 3020 from e-bay with 18 hours on it for 500 beans.
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Sat Nov 12, 2016 5:19 am

ok so next series of photos.

this is all about the speaker stands and the mount for the screen..


with my setup i had to overcome an issue with how to mount everything. i wanted the speakers up off the floor. and the screen mounted very securely but easy to level. but here is the dilemma.

the wall everything is mounted on is what is called a pony wall. the lower 38" are 8" thick concrete. and the upper is a 2x4 wall. so there is a ledge. and that ledge is about 4.5" but has a nice shelf on it making it 5.5". and when i had but in the shelf i designed it so that it opens up and reveals a wire chase under it. so i couldn't bolt or screw to it... and i don't know of any company that makes any kind of wall mount speaker stand with a 6" reach and will hold up 70+ lbs.

and to be honest if one did exist it would probably be a couple hundred per mount. and that's crazy.. so i started thinking.... what do i know if that is small super strong and can hold up massive amounts of weight being only supported from one end...

STRUT!!!!

Strut is a metal channel that is used in construction. you commonly see it in warehouses on the ceiling. it's what all the piping is attached to. strut can hold approx 1800 lbs on a 2 foot span. and something like 800 lbs at 2 foot with only one end being supported...

hmmmm this will do...

and strut is 20 USD for 10 feet of it.. wow. that's cheap... the brackets and nuts and bolts can get expensive. home depot had the strut. and they also were the cheapest on the brackets at 2.50 per bracket. the nuts and bolts however they wanted almost 150 USD for the quantity i needed. thus i headed over to a fastener supplier. and purchased all the nuts and bolts for just under 15 USD..

i ended up using 3 10' pieces of strut. 60pcs of 3/8 bolts, 60 spring less strut nuts and 12 3/8 x 2 lag screws. i don't recall the specific number of brackets. something around like 20 of them. so for about 120 USD i made mounts for all of my speakers and the projection screen. and it wouldn't have an issue standing off the wall 6" and supporting a lot of weight. you can't even get 2 mid level speaker mounts for that much.

here are the photos.

on the front speakers i ran into another problem. stud location in the wall. the closest stud was opposite the projector screen. but it was just far enough out that you could see the mount if i went there. only by an inch but that wasn't going to work for me. so i had to make this crazy mount to reach in behind the screen to the next stud at 14" or so away. pretty crafty

13122825_10206404340133151_5254941132207719216_o.jpg


I know i showed this photo already but you can see the bar running vertical. that is strut. and there is a bracket attached to it. and strut is c channel steep with the open end of the c rolled in slightly. the purpose for this is the nut slides into the track and then you bolt whatever to it.. this is nice because i have one on each side of the screen and this allows me to adjust the height of the screen for each side independently. making leveling or adjusting the screen height a snap for one person. just loosen the bolt and lift or lower. the nut slides in the track.

13130874_10206404354533511_6475873061598720017_o.jpg

13131256_10206404340093150_8174331599752936341_o.jpg
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby zian » Sat Nov 12, 2016 2:09 pm

The blue column in the images is just a vent. Chimney kind of.
It routes cooler air from the floor to the projector. A 3010 Epson.
It's been a good projector. The first one I bought (a cheaper floor model or returned 3010 discounted from BestBuy years ago) was replaced by Epson cause it had a bad glow in one corner of the image. The crappiest thing about these to me is that a non OEM bulb will set the projector to beep and buzz. It's retarded. I bombarded Epson's Facebook page with pleads to remove that "feature". They didn't. lol
I even opened it up and poked all around looking for the darn buzzer. I had hoped to remove it or silence it. Never found it. It is buried in there. A few days later I found that changing the living room/dynamic/etc/etc setting would stop the beeping. But also crank up the fan.

The blue chimney worked great last night. Fireplace was stoked and ceiling was HOT. But I turned off the projector before bed and it shut right down. No blinks, no fan no beeps. Nice and cool it was. ;)
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Re: First Post, Gotta start somewhere

Postby kgschlosser » Sat Nov 12, 2016 4:54 pm

That projector has a front exhaust and intake. I believe the intake is on the left. But I don't remember. If you take a 3" aluminum vent pipe found in the HVAC isle at depot or Lowe's. Do not get the slinkeey style one that's like tinfoil or plastic. They cause to much air turbulence. Get the one that is rigid but does expand. Take 4 paper clips and bend them into hooks and pierce one end of the paper clip through one end of the pipe. Do that in 4 places around the end of the pipe. Hook the paperclips to the grill on the exhaust side. With this method the pipe is flexible so you can bend it over the top of the projector and back against the wall and down. And it will keep its shape. And you can also paint it up nice nice. Some of the hammered rustolium would look nice. It also allows for you to detach the pipe easily enough. Total cost.

15 for the pipe. 2 cents for the paperclips and 6 beans for the paint.

Good thing with this is you can install a helper fan in it if needed and hook the fan up to an adjustable wall wart so you can have control of the fan speed by lowering the voltage. Just remember to use a computer fan. And no higher than 12 volts. Every fan is different in its minimum startup voltage. But if you only want it to creep along you may be able to set it to 3 volts. But you will have to either spin it by hand to start it. Ir move the switch to 12 get it moving then move it back down. I do know 100 % this works for 5 volts. Don't know about 3. This is a really nice way to get the internal fan in the unit to stop going like a bandit. And you can put the pipe and fan some place to kill the sound. Like under the sofa.

As far as the buzzer. It's mounted on the main PCB. It's round could be plastic or metal. But usually plastic. Most times they are blue. But it will have a hole in the middle of it with a bit of metal under that hole. 3 - 4 bits of electrical tape over that hole will do the trick for ys
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